Takashi Ozaki

Takashi Ozaki was a Japanese mountaineer born in Kameyama in Mie Prefecture on 9 September 1952. He is known for the first ascent of the north face of Mount Everest, made with Tsuneo Shigehiro on 10 May 1980, and for a December ascent of Everest in 1983. In 1996 he made the first ascent of Hkakabo Razi in Myanmar with the Myanmar climber Niyma Gyaltsen. His summits also included Broad Peak, Manaslu, Lhotse, Kangchenjunga, Makalu and Dhaulagiri. He was married to Frederique Gely-Ozaki, who climbed with him, and he died on 12 May 2011 while descending Everest's south side at about 8,600 metres after medical problems forced him to abort his summit attempt.