Iuliia Kaplina

Iuliia Vladimirovna Kaplina, born on 11 May 1993, is a Russian competition climber who has won multiple speed climbing events and set several world records. She made her first World Cup appearance in Chamonix in 2012, finishing eighteenth, and set the women's speed record of 6.964 seconds at the 2020 European Championships in Moscow, a mark that stood until 6 August 2021. Her result at the IFSC Combined Qualifier in Toulouse in 2019 earned her a place at the 2020 Summer Olympics, where she did not reach the final after failing to hit the button at the top of the wall on her second speed attempt and posting weaker lead and bouldering results. In an interview she criticised the ban on test climbs for speed climbers at the qualifying event, since the friction of the holds and local conditions matter in the discipline.