Dougal Haston

Dougal Haston, born in 1940 near Edinburgh and killed in an avalanche in January 1977, was a Scottish mountaineer known for hard routes in the British Isles, the Alps and the Himalayas. Early in his career he climbed new Scottish routes with Robin Smith, including The Bat on Ben Nevis. In 1966 he was part of the team that made the first ascent of the Eiger north face by the direct route, later named the Harlin Direct. In 1970 he and Don Whillans made the first climb of the south face of Annapurna on Chris Bonington expedition, and in 1975 he and Doug Scott became the first pair to summit Everest by the south-west face. From 1967 he directed the International School of Mountaineering at Leysin in Switzerland, where he is buried.