Conrad Anker

Conrad Anker, born 27 November 1962, is an American rock climber, mountaineer and author. He led The North Face climbing team for 26 years until 2018. In 1999, as a member of a search team looking for the remains of the British climber George Mallory, who was last seen in 1924, he located Mallory's body on Everest. He returned in 2007 with Leo Houlding on the Altitude Everest expedition and free climbed the Second Step to test whether Mallory could have climbed it. His record of first ascents spans Alaska, Patagonia, Antarctica and the Karakoram, including Rakekniven Peak in 1997 and the Shark's Fin on Meru Peak in 2011. He suffered a heart attack on Lunag Ri in 2016, after which he retired from high altitude mountaineering, and he lives in Bozeman, Montana.